Our fit philosophy
A lot of advice is online about “how a suit should fit”, but most of it is written by people who have never worked in the business. Some of the advice is good and common sense, some of it applies only to a few people with a certain body type, and some of it is outright wrong. At Vantage Bespoke Tailor we have a few guiding principles on fit.
Fit starts with your body, not a picture of someone else’s suit. Our suits are made to fit who you are and the shape of your body. How a suit drapes on a model or celebrity in a photo can be very different to how it drapes on you. We acknowledge your body as the framework from which we begin and seek to fit it in the best possible way.
Drape over “slim fit”. We get it: you don’t want to look like you’re dressed in a rental two sizes too big. But on the flip side, cutting a suit skin-tight doesn’t look good, either. We seek balance and want the cloth to fall and drape naturally over your body. We seek clean lines, room to move and fabric that isn’t straining or creasing unnaturally.
Our suit fitting process
Our bespoke service is ideal for new clients who are difficult to fit, including athletic and corpulent body types that would typically have issues finding suits off the rack. Your fit specialist will consult with you during the fitting if it is the right service for you. For any repeat order we can continue to look at fit and make adjustments to the pattern.
Our suit quality
Suits are a complex garment with a lot of components, which means there are a lot of choices to make about the quality of construction and materials used. We took the easy approach: use the best available to make the best.
All suits include:
Full floating canvas construction: a horsehair interlining “floats” in between the suit’s chest. This gives the jacket its drape, molds to the wearer, shapes the roll of the jacket’s lapels, and contributes immensely to the proper fit of the jacket that only gets better with time.
Three shoulder options: Our German-made wool shoulder pads provide the character of the jacket. Opt for a traditional pad for your standard formal suit. A soft shoulder can be slightly casual and more comfortable. Or choose no padding at all for a deconstructed look that will express your shoulder line for as it truly is.
Reinforced stitching: Look close and you’ll notice these under-the-radar details. Bar tack stitching reinforces the jacket pockets and trouser waistband. Stitching transforms fabric into a garment and we insist it be of high quality.
Buttons & lining: We offer genuine horn buttons standard. For lining, we provide Bemberg (also called “cupro”) for the most superior breathability, durability, and frictionless touch.
Fabric: We procure our fabrics directly from the mills we’ve chosen to partner with for our suits. This decision came after years of trying various merchants and wholesalers. In the end, we decided to take a trip to Italy and build relationships face to face with those providing us the most beautiful and reliable fabrics we vetted. And our clients benefit directly from our sourcing to get fabric at an incredible value.